In fact of Oshima tsumugi now

Oshima tsumugi is one of the most difficult textile to make in the world though
Its a declining industry now.
It had been 10 million sales 30years ago.
Weaving women got a lot of money for the salary.
It was around 2 thousand dollar per 1 roll.
But now
Its around 2 handred dollar per 1 roll now.

Many people does not want to make Ooshima tsumugi.

Also people who engage to make Ooshima tsumugi is getting to be older.
Because Young people does not want to engage to make Ooshima tsumugi.
Even if people who engage to make it want to succeed this traditional technique,
No one was hand over by such as people cause small demand.

There are just a few people under 30 years old.

There are a lot of process to make Ooshima tsumugi.

1. Dyeing yarn( doro zome )
2. Making ikat ( shime bata )
3. Weaving thread

Each part of process has specialist.
So no one can make Ooshima tsumugi as one person.

Its a polytheism so its very strong system to keep doing Ooshim tsumugi though it does not has genius.

Dorozome park

I went to Dorozome park in Amami.
It is far 15min to use a car from where i live.

In the park there are many marsh.
A soil which in a marsh is red clay, like a power and has a lot of iron.
Iron in the soil makes fixing color in textile.
The iron content is the highest place this island than.
It will make a pure black in silk.
So its called "Black diamond".

photo by http://amami7.seesaa.net/article/119735412.html

The ancient textile in Japan 4

Kouzo 楮

Kouzo is made by paper - mulberry.
It is popular as to make a paper though
It can make a textile too.
It is used Kozo's skin.
first it have to put on the snow a few days because of to make softer.
And It is steamed.
Then we can make a yarn from it.

It is very strong, plane and artless though the more you use the more you like.

The ancient textile in Japan 3

Kuzuhu in Kakegawa in Japan.  掛川の葛布

Kuzuhu is made by Kuzu which is plants of Kudzu.
Kuzu is popular as to make a flour by roots.
And It is used as medicine in Asia.

This textile's industry is in Kakegawa in middle of Japan.
What is the special this textile is looks sparking and shinning on surface of textile.
It is very rough, strong, simple and beautiful.



 

The ancient textile in Japan 2

Nanbu Shikon Zome (南部紫根染め)

This is in Iwate in Northern Japan.
A violet color is very deep and beautiful.
It is made by roots.
It takes long time to dye it and is difficult to grow this roots.
The way to dye calls Koukechi in long long time ago is kind of Shibori (tie dye) .
It was not allowed to wear this textile by law because of too expensive.
So only royal people was wearing all of ancient amazing textile in Japan too.

The ancient textile in Japan

Attoushi ori (厚司織)
http://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/アットゥシ

This textile is made in Hokkaidou which is Northern island in Japan.
There are Ainu people there and This is the traditional textile for Ainu.
Yarn is made by Ulmus Laciniate.
It is woven by Asshikarabe which is same way as Zibata.
http://shinrany.blogspot.jp/2012/05/yuki-tsumugi-which-is-most-beautiful.html

Ito umi ( to spin Yarn )

This is a short film to spin yarn for Yuki-tsumugi.

http://www2.edu.ipa.go.jp/gz/y-kwm/y-fkg/y-fyk/y-ykg2.mpg

A women is spinning yarn from Mawata which is floss silk by her hand.

She put her saliva to yarn when she spins.

It makes yarn glossy and strength.

This process is very important, difficult and to take long time.

Basically It needs there month to spin yarn for one Kimono Even someone who is master of to spin it.

We call length of Kimono textile as "tan".

One Kimono needs one tan of textile.

Well,

It almost over to be succeed this technique.

No one want to do this in Japan now.

Although every process of to make Kimono textile is amazing, special, unique and spreme technique in Japan, in the world too

we are loosing it little by little.

http://www.sangokan.com/books/978-4-88320-388-8.html

This is about the agriculture for Kimono textile in Japan.

I agree what author said Because
natural textile connect agriculture very strong and deep.
We won't be able to make textile without natural fiber and natural dyeing material.
Its very hard to make it.
for example,
cotton, hemp, silk....
It takes time all of yarn because you have to grow first before to make yarn.
Its a long process until we will get a clothing.
There are many effort.
I respect that they are working so hard to make it.

http://www.amazon.co.jp/日本の自然布-別冊太陽/dp/4582944612

This is about Japanese ancient natural textile.
Its a very expensive book.
Also japan has many type of natural textile.
Its interesting and excited to learn japanese history through ancient textile.
You can see another view of our country.

YUKI Tsumugi which is the most beautiful, difficult hand weaving textile

Yuki Tsumugi is the most expensive, important and beautiful Kimono textile in Japan.

1 Tan is size of length which is 12.40 m for japanese traditional Kimono clothing.
If you have 1 tan of kimono textile you will be able to make 1 japanese traditional Kimono clothing.

Well,
Yuki Tsumugi is one of kimono textile in japan which is the most difficult process to make it.
It is a official national treasure in Japan.

They use a special hand weaving machine which calls "Zibata".
It is more difficult to use than "Takabata" is.
Ooshima tsumugi is using "Takabata".
Of source to use "Takabata" is difficult too.

Zibata needs a great balance to make a beautiful textile.
Someone who weave Yuki tsumugi have to concentrate to make it.

to be continue....

the first yarn in Japan

The first yarn in Japan is hemp which was found in Torihama ruins in Fukui prefecture in Japan.
It was from 10000years ago.
Japan has long history of Hemp.

Because Japanese word which is "Nuno" means Hemp long time ago.
If I translate "Nuno" in English, it is textile.
Usually when people had talked about textile, those almost were hemp in Japan.

Also Hemp have been used by many shrine.

Known everybody scared thing in Japan is "SHIMENAWA" which made from hemp.

And many of pattern from hemp was popular in Japan.
people have loved it.

Ka Cho Fu Getsu

Ka Cho Fu Getsu means kind of Nature, All of life long time ago.

Ka is flower, Cho is bird, Fu is Wind and Getsu is Moon.

Old people does not feel difference themselves and Nature.
There was no border.

They had thought we were part of nature,
we were embraced and holden them by nature
And they had had respected Nature more than they are.
Like known Nature is an awe-inspiring.

When you saw Kimono textile you can find a lot of pattern of nature.

Its not only from Kimono.
When you will see japanese traditional thing,
No matter what it is japanese traditional one, you can find something nature sign.

photo by http://www.senga-sanjin.com/sakuhin.html

About Shimebata

Shimebata is loom for to make double ikat.
It developed around 1907 in Amami island.
This is the special technique of Ooshima tsumugi to make difficult pattern ikat with beautiful and perfect.
Woop of silk is inserted between warp of cotton yarn
then It is weaved and bind hard by warp.
*warp of cotton yarn is just for to resist dye.
It needs strong power to make beautiful and clear ikat.

Finally It will make to resist printing when it will dye.

photo by http://tabikaratabi.pro.tok2.com/page145.html
http://www.amakara.jp/whats_ohshima/o_seihou.html

Ancient village Teganan in Bali

There is one village which is Teganan in Bali. This village is very unique. They have been doing consanguineous marriage since long long time ago.
It is very old culture in the world.
Some race in the world, in japan, especially nomadic people was.
They have to leave offspring.

Well,
Teganan is very unique in the world as textile of double ikat too.

*about ikat please check below if you don't know.
http://shinrany.blogspot.jp/2012/05/about-kasuri.html

They made a special textile for God, something great.
To offer textile for it takes 10 years per each.

They are doing dyeing yarn blue and red again, again and again.
Especially red color takes 8 years.
It is made a beautiful and deep red by time.

Then they weave by hand.
It must be Art and has a great power.

photo by http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/cabe1101/1513008.html

A principle of Ooshima tsumugi

There are many kind of Tsumugi textile in Japan.
also There are fake one too.
I can let you know How can you find real one out.

1. All of product must be 100% silk.
2. It must be a yarn dyeing from doro some and hand weaving.
3. It must be plane weave.
4. A splashed pattern is made by Shime bata( in which special weaving loom for dyeing )

If you can find Ooshima tsumugi which cover the principle 1~4
you can find this trademark of  on product.
Its called "Tikyu shirushi" means trademark of the Earth.
It promise you that is is a proof of high-end brand in Kimono textile.

If you will find similer trade mark
it means its include camical dyeing and machine weaving.

photo by http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/jyuzakenji/49949196.html

Pattern of Ooshima tsumugi

There is symbol of pattern of Ooshima tsumugi.

Those pattern is very popular.

1.Kikkou

This sharp express  a turtle. It symbolizes that people wishes long life.

2. Akina bara
This pattern express a bamboo basket.
It is very useful and helpful tool for them life.
And the red color express a rose.

3. Tatsugou
This pattern express "Sotetsu" which is cycas revolute and "Habu" is one of snake in the island.
"Sotetsu" is popular plants and "Habu" have putted people in awe of it.
Well,
Long time ago, People had to make a best Ooshima tsumugi for King.
In Tatsugo one designer was thinking how to make it.
One day, He saw Habu on Sotetsu under the moonlight.
It was beautiful and inspired him then He could create this design from inspiration.
People had named to cerebrate there for it.

photo by http://www.amamitumugi.com/hpgen/HPB/categories/50940.html

First step weaving

1. Soukou toushi 綜絖通し

Each warp is threaded to Soukou one by one by hand.
It takes 1 or 2 days to do basically.

2. Osa toushi 筬通し

And after to thread warp to soukou,
It is threaded to Osa.
Each two warp is threaded to between thin gap of metal or bamboo.
It takes one day to do.

It is a job that requires patiences.

I had taken three days to do it.

photo by http://www.miyako-shinei.jp/miyakojofu/seisyoku.html
http://norikook.exblog.jp/2561797/

First day at the school,
I was impressed to see my Takabata (Loom) and many weft(woof) and warp what i will weave!

image by http://mametishik.exblog.jp/


1：Hi  杼
Hi is parts for weft (woof )  is threaded between warp and warp.
2：Kuda  管
Kuda is a small wood bar for rolling weft (woof). There is inside of Hi.
3：Chimaki 千巻
Chimaki is parts for rolling textile what it made.
4：Soukou  綜絖
Soukou is parts for making warp to up and down for let weft (woof) through between warp and warp.
The number of Soukou decide how textile is it making. The more it is difficult of textile pattern, the more it needs number of Soukou.
5：Chikiri  千切
Chikiri is parts for rolling warp.
6：Osa 筬
Osa is parts for to weave. Many thin bamboo or metal inside of Osa makes pigeonhole for to let warp through it.
 7：Fumiki 踏み木
It is parts for to make soukou to up and down. It is thread on by foot.

Then Let's try, we can weave!

Loom for Weaving

We use one of Loom which is "Takabata" for weaving "Ooshima tsumugi".

It is a tool of hand weaving in the world.

There are two kind of tool of hand weaving in Japan.

Another one is "Jibata" which is more simple, primitive, old style and difficult to use.

It was imported around A.D. 400 in Japan.

There are many kind of Loom for each traditional textile in the world.

Each country has own way to weave the textile.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loom

Doro zome (mudding)

Ooshima tsumugi has a special dyeing which is Doro some.


















*Ooshima tsumugi

"Doro" means soil, "some" means dyeing in japanese.
So it is mudding.

The soil in this island has many iron.
The plants is called "sharon bai" is for dyeing material.
Iron in the soil make deep color from "sharon bai"



1. Thread or fabric soak into the water with sharin bai
2. After to soak thread or fabric, it soaks into soil too.
3. Do again 1 and 2.

We have to do again so many time.








*doing doro some

Then we will be able to see a beautiful black as we call Doro some after many effort.

*photo from ume wake

http://sunandsnowand.com/dialy/?p=1959

About Kasuri

"Ooshima tsumugi is the high class sold pongee witch symbolizes Amamian history, pride and folklore culture from ancient times, about 1300 years ago."
text by Ooshima tsumugimura
photo is my teacher.

Ooshima tsumugi use the way "ikat" which came from Indonesia long time ago.
Old people had developed this way for japanese traditional style since it imported to Japan.

wiki:ikat
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ikat

Now Japan has many way of "ikat" as japanese traditional style.
and many place had created and developed ikat them own style, pattern, color and technique as Kimono textile.
We called it "Kasuri".
It is explained by wiki.

"Kasuri is a japanese word for fabric that has been woven with fibers dyed specifically to create patterns and images in the fabric. It is an ikattechnique. Kasuri is weft ikat; the warp threads can be a solid color or resist dyed as well, and the weft thread is resist-tied i a specific pattern and tied with indigo to form a picture when the cloth is woven. When the woven pattern creates an image it is referred to as picture kasuri or e-gasuri.

Japanese ikats are generally weft ikats or double ikats."

please check below.
you can see many variety of "Kasuri".

So Ooshima tsumugi is one of Kasuri.

Oshima Tsumugi

I have been learning to weave the Japanese traditional Kimono textile in southern island in Japan which is Oshima Tsumugi since I came back to Japan in April.
I d like to introduce Oshima Tsumugi little by little.

Japan has many kind of Kimono textile and there were long history.

Oshima Tsumugi is a kind of Japanese kimono.
You can see how look like that.
Please check below.

Super Moon

Today is the day of Super Moon in 2012.
Feel free, Pray for the peace and Think people and Earth.

I went to the beach with my friend.

The moon is rising upon the mountain was perfect circle and dramatically beautiful.

So It was a peaceful night.

Love and Peace
*photo is super moon in 2011

Mt. Ogami

In these sunny day, I went to Mt. Ogami near by my home.

This small mountain is 1 hour round trip and is close my house like 5min away.

It was a great day, comfortable wind, many green and beautiful view.

I said hi this island in the top of mt. Ogami.

Love,

Dyeing night

Planning to make a place mat and coaster to use Linen.
So,,, Thinking patchwork  or embroidery or dyeing.
I decide to dye Linen.
I have a material to dye warm color.

刈安 Kariyasu
山梔子 Kuchinashi
蘇方 Suou
茜 Akane
Also I have a recycle kimono for reuse.
Its a fun time!!

Sunny day at Oohama beach

I went to Oohama beach.
















There are a restaurant which is Taraso Amami.
It was quiet, clean, calm and to see the beautiful sea from terrace in the restaurant.
The menu is very healthy so I could enjoy a simple and healthy food.
I had eaten a rice noodle and my friend had eaten Curry with local vegetables.
We had a fun time.

It was great sunny day :-)

The Loom studio in Germany

Art of the Loom

BOOK: Woven

手織り工房 (ハンドクラフトシリーズ 146)
彦根 愛 (著)




手織りの実技工房―絣からもじり織まで
吉田 絋三 (著)

First post in Amami

first post in AMAMI

I would like to make beautiful textile then would like to express the truth of Universe into textile.
I love the Earth and Nature so I would like to care about it.
I d like to make my art work as much as possible with our Earth.



title : REQUIEM　鎮魂
2011
organic cotton, japanese traditional indigo dyeing, shibori


にほんブログ村